Sweet wines are glorious, but after a big dinner they can be too much. But starting on stickies...now that feels different: decadent, baroque, indulgent even. A constellation of fortune seems to converge upon the picturesque vineyards at Domaine de Durban. Even The Oxford Companion to Wine takes space to note the terrific concentration that Durban’s vineyards achieve. The Leydiers are particularly proud of their Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a vin doux naturel, as they are among the last to craft it in the traditional style. This dessert wine displays concentrated notes of ripe pear and apricot.