The fifty-year-old Grenache vines of the Terrasse du Diable at Les Pallières look eerily more like predatory eagle’s talons than vines, but don’t let this vineyard intimidate you. Sure, it’s named after the devil, but the wine, once tableside, is more of a gentle giant whose only dark side is black fruit and licorice notes. If you’re familiar with the wines of Vieux Télégraphe, you know that grapes in the hands of the Brunier brothers are treated respectfully to coax nuance and finesse. So don’t be afraid. This Gigondas may be serious, but it’s as gentlemanly as any I’ve ever tasted.